Moi

Today I learned that Norway is no joke. If a route isn’t valid, there’s no quick detour. The topography of the landscape makes it especially complicated. Today I found out that on my route there’s a bridge that was under repair, and I had to turn around a few times only to figure out another valid route. That other route also had a gate, which I had to go over, which wasn’t easy with my heavy bike. Not sure if I trespassed, but I really had to get to the hotel.

Apparently this road used to be the main route to Moi, during WW2. And now the route is a historical landmark, and I had the fortune to watch the sunset from the highest point in this road. But I was tired, very tired. At this point I was already more than 12 hours on (and off) the bike. I had guzzled six or seven pints of gatorade and coke. Twice I stopped at supermarkets to buy food and drinks.

But today’s decisions were mostly riddled with mistakes. I couldn’t have known that the bridge was broken, I didn’t even know there was a bridge until I was there. But I shouldn’t have planned such a long route knowing that the gradients on the uphills are very high, specially since I didn’t plan out a campsite or such. The old road was also very steep, I am worried I might have worn off the brake pads just by coming down that path. I hadn’t experienced such a steep downhill gradient before. In general downhill switchbacks are very hard on the brakes, I suppose tomorrow a check is warranted.

The problem with long routes is time. I thought I had plenty of time before I discovered the broken bridge, and I was supposed to go shopping afterwards for food. Coupled with extraordinarily steep uphills, the entire route was slow on the bike. I barely made it to the hotel to buy food, but eventually when I checked in, it was too late. Worst case, I could have camped somewhere out of the town, but finding a reasonably flat surface is trickier than I thought. A natural square meter of flat grassy patch of land is surprisingly rare I realised, specially in this rocky terrain. Luckily, I had some food with me, so I managed to eat after entering the hotel. It’s an old hotel in the process of being renovated. Which actually makes it a little more authentic than a hotel that’s trying to hold on to the old-timey charm. In this hotel, it’s not a special feature, just quite literally the hotel during its transformation. Everything reeks of the 70s. And Receptionist Youssef is the probably the nicest receptionist who I probably had to wake up to get my keys.

I must say, today’s ride was extraordinarily long and lonely. I suppose that’s how ultra-endurance racers feel. But I did meet someone from Seattle; made my day. We chatted a little bit, around her trip and mine. She is on her way to Copenhagen. It gave me a little bit of oompf that I needed until I ran into the bridge problem.

I thought since the bridge is broken, there must be an alternate bike path, or a walking path. I suppose theoretically I could have thrown my bike across a tiny stream and somehow scramble up a small cliff to the other side but at this point I was already tired and confused. I did find a little abandoned railway station below the bridge.

Just as I was leaving I saw two people riding one of these bicycle style train trolleys.

When I left today the receptionist in Camp Lyngdal took a photo of me for their facebook page. She said she has seen 6 hikers / bikers this season who have something to do with Nordkapp. I think have an idea about where all the bikers are, but that’s for another day.

Near the end of today’s ride, I was truly tired, and I thought if I would actually make it to Nordkapp. It was getting cold, my water was running out and I barely had any snacks left. That’s when I met a local couple who were out testing their new German E-bikes. They confirmed my route was correct and should end up in Moi. They grow grass which then they can feed their animals during winter. Before parting they gave me the last bit encouragement when they learned I have been riding since 9 in the morning. They said, “Ah it’s all flat from here on out!”. It wasn’t.

Good night!

Moi, Norway