Florø

Today was another mostly uneventful day where I just smashed pedals until I reached my destination, except it was rainy, windy, and sometimes both. The route also had a few sections over busy roads, so all in all, was not a particularly nice ride. But I also went through quiet places, over the hills, with not a soul around. I faced wind so strong I couldn’t even roll downhill. I felt hunger, frustration, exhilaration, cold. I saw roads that are almost abandoned, except for cyclists who dare to cross.

I was warned about the climb today by Andy from Australia. He was going the other way when I met him. Fortunately the climb itself was fine for me. But ever since I entered Norway, there have been almost always people around. Only a few times I came across places that are reasonably remote, with marks of human constructions and structures, but without a soul in sight, sometimes with a sign of decay. Today on top of my climb was one of those places. There was a house, but it didn’t seem like anyone was there. There was a tunnel, but didn’t seem like it is very well maintained, there was even a “road closed” sign before the tunnel. I thought for a bit what that could imply before going inside.

The slowest and most agonising part of today’s ride was probably the last 20 kilometres or so where I faced headwind from the sea. It was amazingly strong wind, enough to make me get to a rest spot right before the town of Florø. There I met Kenneth. I saw him in his parked car when going to the bench at the rest spot, Kenneth realising what I have been going through, came out of his car and gave me a can of Pepsi!

We spoke a lot about salmon farming, its environmental impact. Big food corporations in Norway monopolising food and controlling the prices. We spoke about cars, data and privacy, canned fish industry etc. He told me what to look for in the salmon farms to see if they are feeding the salmon at that moment; we saw one feeding. Apparently these salmon farm feeding process is automated. But sometimes the salmon escape due to technical faults, and then the salmon farm owners reward local hobby fishers for catching those salmons; these farmed salmons are genetically modified. He also told me about the old monastery on the Island of Selja. I am now considering a visit there.

I am realising the limitations of my gear, the North Sea is relentless and wild, unlike the domesticated winter & rain I usually experience in Hamburg. So maybe some expedition grade gear would make it easier. Maybe tomorrow...

When I finally reached the campsite, I very quickly realised putting up a tent would be a nightmare in the wind and also I don’t have extra pegs for wind protecting my tent (not expedition grade). So I asked the campsite host if he has a cabin. Cabins are expensive, but he graciously offered me a discount. It’s very luxurious; I treated myself to it.

I suppose I am starting to see what auteur Hideo Kojima wanted us to see in his last video-game Death Stranding; the poetry in not-going-anywhere-fast. It’s not that every day is an adventure; or that every day exciting new things are supposed to happen. Quite the opposite, it’s the mundanity of moving over a planet that exists. Yes, there are exciting moments here and there, but the highlights of my days are unremarkable; the slow passing of time, the almost static image of a mountain, the grass moving with the wind, water droplets in air from a waterfall, the sound of a stream, looks from curious farm animals, the sound of tires over gravel, the taste of a supermarket muffin, the sensation of being somewhere.

Good Night!

Florø, Norway